When an ice dam forms on an Indianapolis roof, keep people away from the eave, protect the rooms below from water, and find where the water is getting in before anything is chipped or heated. The cause is usually warm air leaking into the attic and melting the snow above it, so the attic is the first place to look. A written record of the dam and the attic findings is what makes the repair stick.
Key takeaways
- Keep people and cars clear of the eave. Ice can fall without warning, and the edge of a dam is slippery.
- Protect the interior first: move valuables, place trays under the drips and turn off power to any wet fitting at the panel.
- Do not chip, hammer or steam ice from the roof. The method damages shingles and gutters and can drive water further under the covering.
- Find the warm air path in the attic. Leaks at the ceiling plane, the chimney and the recessed lights feed the melt that builds the dam.
- Clear and seal the eave with a method that protects the roof, and record what was done and what is still needed.
- Check the ceiling again after the next thaw, because water can stay in the structure long after the ice has gone.
What happens first when an ice dam is found?
Make the house safe before anything else. Keep people clear of the eave and of the area under the dam, and check the rooms below for water that is near electrical fittings.
An ice dam is a ridge of ice at the eave that holds back the melt above it. The ridge is heavy and can slide or drop in a thaw, so the area under the eave is not a place to stand or park a car. Children and pets should be kept indoors and away from windows that are under the dam.
If water is coming through a ceiling, check where it is near a light fitting or an outlet. Turn off the circuit at the panel if the water is close to it, and do not touch a wet fitting. Then move furniture and put a tray or a bucket under the lowest drip.
What should a homeowner not do?
Do not climb the roof to chip the ice, do not use a hammer or a steamer on the shingles, and do not run a heater or a torch on the roof. Each of those can crack the covering and drive water further under the shingles.
Chipping and prying lift the shingles at the eave and can tear the sealant. Steam and heat can soften the asphalt and push water into the joints. A homeowner who tries to clear the eave from a ladder also risks a fall, since the ice and the wet roof are both slippery.
Salt and other de-icers should be used carefully, because they can damage the gutters, the fascia and the plants below the eave. A better course is to call a technician who knows which method protects the roof for the particular dam.
Ice on the eave is often the most visible part of the problem, but it is also the part least worth fixing on its own. A homeowner who sees a dam should look at the attic, the gutters and the ceiling below the dam before deciding anything, because the water's route is what the repair has to follow.
Why does the attic matter more than the ice?
The attic is where warm air from the house leaks into the roof and melts the snow above. Clearing the ice without stopping that air means the dam will form again at the next cold spell.
The common warm air paths are the top plates of interior walls, the recessed lights, the chimney chase, the attic hatch and the plumbing stacks. Each can let heat and moisture rise into the attic, and the underside of the roof is warmed by it.
The soffit vents are the other half of the answer. When insulation covers them, the eave cannot stay cold and the melt runs down to freeze at the edge. An attic inspection finds both the leaks and the blocked vents, and the repair starts there.
How is the eave cleared and protected?
A technician clears the ice where it can be done safely, using methods that protect the shingles and the gutters. The eave is then protected with an ice barrier where the job calls for one, so the water that gets past the shingles does not reach the decking.
Clearing is a step, not the whole repair. Removing the ridge without fixing the attic leaves the warm air to melt the next dam. The clearing is done with care, and the gutters and the fascia are checked for damage from the ice.
An ice barrier is a self-adhering membrane laid under the shingles along the eave and in the valleys. It seals the nail holes and the joints where dam water would otherwise get in. It does not stop ice from forming, and the report says where it is used and why.
| Step | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Keep people and cars clear of the eave | Ice can fall in a thaw, and the edge is slippery |
| Turn off power to any wet fitting | Water near electricity is a shock risk |
| Place trays and move valuables | Stops damage to the room while the leak is traced |
| Check the attic for warm air paths | Sealing the path is what stops the melt that builds the dam |
| Clear the ice with a safe method | Protects the shingles, the gutters and the fascia |
| Protect the eave with an ice barrier | Keeps dam water off the decking |
| Restore the attic ventilation | Keeps the underside of the roof cold at the eave |
| Dry the ceiling and check it after the thaw | Water can stay in the structure after the ice is gone |
What should be done about water already in the ceiling?
The wet materials are dried or removed once they can be safely reached, and the ceiling is checked again after the thaw. A ceiling that is painted or patched while wet hides the damage and can grow mold.
A stain that is dry and old can be left until the repair is made. A stain that is damp or spreading needs a tray, a drain path and a fan to help it dry, and the technician will say when the insulation or the drywall needs to come out.
Plaster and drywall hold water for some time after the ice has gone, so the ceiling should be checked after the thaw and again after the repair. The drying plan goes into the report, so the homeowner knows when the ceiling can be painted or patched.
A roof that is covered in snow and ice should be left to a crew that works from a safe point, with the right equipment for the pitch. The crew sets the work in order: the attic and the warm air first, the eave second and the covering last. That order keeps the repair from being undone by the next melt.
When should a professional be called?
Call a technician at once if water is coming into the house, if the ice is heavy along the eave, or if the stain is spreading. A winter call is a priority because the next thaw can bring more water in a single day.
The line is answered around the clock on (833) 751-2102, and a crew is sent as soon as one is free. Ice and snow on the roads can slow the arrival, and the crew will say when it expects to get there.
A technician can also plan the work for a time when the weather allows. A repair is not made on an icy roof unless the crew can work safely, and the report notes what is done now and what waits for better weather.
What should the record show after the repair?
The record should show the attic findings, the warm air paths, the vents, the eave work and the drying plan, with photographs and dates. It is the baseline for the next winter and the document an insurer or buyer will ask for.
A record that lists each warm air path and its fix shows the next technician where to look first. It also shows whether the vents were cleared and whether the ridge exhaust was checked.
The homeowner keeps the record with the house file. If the dam returns, the record shows what was done and what was missed, and the next visit starts from that point rather than from the beginning.
How can the next winter's dam be prevented?
Prevention is an attic job first: seal the ceiling plane, clear the soffit vents, check the ridge exhaust and keep the gutters clear. An autumn checkup before the freeze is the best time to do it.
The autumn visit finds the warm air paths and the blocked vents before the first freeze. It also clears the valleys and gutters so the melt drains instead of backing up at the eave.
A house with a history of dams may also need the eave protected with an ice barrier before the next winter. The technician sets out the options and the cost of each, so the homeowner can decide with the facts in front of them.
Frequently asked questions
Can I just remove the ice and be done with it?
Removing the ice stops the immediate water, but the dam returns if the attic is still warm. The attic work is what stops it coming back.
Will a roof rake help?
A roof rake used from the ground can remove snow above the eave, and it reduces the melt that feeds the dam. It must be used carefully so it does not catch the shingles or the gutters, and it does not remove ice that has already formed.
Does an ice dam always mean a leak?
Not always. A dam can sit at the eave for weeks without a leak. Water finds a way in when the dam grows or when the melt is heavy, so a dam is a reason to check the attic.
Is an ice dam covered by homeowners insurance?
That depends on the policy and the damage. The insurer decides under the policy terms. The record of the dam, the attic findings and the damage supports any claim.
How soon should I call?
As soon as a dam forms with water in the house, or when the eave is holding a heavy ridge of ice. A winter call is treated as a priority.
Who do I call?
Call (833) 751-2102. The line is answered around the clock, and a crew is sent as soon as one is free.
Will the crew work in snow and ice?
Yes, when it is safe to do so. The crew uses the right equipment and a safe access point, and it will stop work if the roof or the weather is not safe. The report says what was done and what waits for better conditions.
Sources
- National Weather Service, Indianapolis office, icestorms information
- Federal Emergency Management Agency, home protection information
- National Centers for Environmental Information, Storm Events Database
This guide is general information for Marion County homeowners, not a substitute for an on-site inspection. Prices are estimates. See our disclaimer.